Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms, part 2

Control Arms
Part II

The following text and photos illustrate work performed on a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4WD, but should also be representative of 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Tacoma model years. Click photos to enlarge.

Remove the four bolts that fasten the lower ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle. It is helpful to use a 14mm deep socket with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Note they are different lengths (shorter bolts go inboard, longer bolts go outboard). Remove cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint stud. Set all removed hardware aside for reassembly later.

Use a pitman arm puller to press the lower ball joint out of the steering knuckle. If you are re-using the ball joint, take care not to damage the rubber boot.

Now the lower arm is ready for removal. Mark the location of one or two of the alignment adjuster cam plates against the frame for reference during reassembly.

It's possible that one, or both of your lower control arm pivot assemblies will be corroded and seized up. My left assembly was fine and came apart easily, but my right assembly was rusty and seized. It took a lot of effort to get the pieces removed without damaging them. One thing that may help a lot is allowing the parts to soak for a period of time with some PB Blaster penetrating catalyst . (I let mine soak overnight.) This is a photo of some things I had to use to free my right side LCA assembly: A 3lb sledge hammer, Superbar, Vice grips with a 3/8" socket extension (for a punch) and the PB Blaster.

You'll notice when trying to remove the rear cam bolts that the steering rack assembly is in the way.

Loosen the steering rack by removing four bolts as shown here. This will allow you to push up on the rack assembly for just enough clearance to remove the cam bolts and the cam sleeves from the control arm assemblies. I also disconnected the black plastic boot for more room, but you may be able to leave the boot on.

Here you can see a floor jack being used (gently) to support the steering rack while the cam sleeve is removed.

Here you can see one of the passenger side cam sleeves which is corroded and seized. Do not pound on the end of the sleeve with a hammer, as you may distort or split the metal. You may use one of the cam bolts or an old 3/8" drive socket extension, either of which will apply a uniform surface to the edge of the cam sleeve when you pound on it with a hammer.

On to Part III

Home

	Remove the four bolts that fasten the lower ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle. It is helpful to use a 14mm deep socket with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Note they are different lengths (shorter bolts go inboard, longer bolts go outboard). Remove cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint stud. Set all removed hardware aside for reassembly later.
Use a pitman arm puller to press the lower ball joint out of the steering knuckle. If you are re-using the ball joint, take care not to damage the rubber boot.
	Now the lower arm is ready for removal. Mark the location of one or two of the alignment adjuster cam plates against the frame for reference during reassembly.
It's possible that one, or both of your lower control arm pivot assemblies will be corroded and seized up. My left assembly was fine and came apart easily, but my right assembly was rusty and seized. It took a lot of effort to get the pieces removed without damaging them. One thing that may help a lot is allowing the parts to soak for a period of time with some PB Blaster penetrating catalyst . (I let mine soak overnight.) This is a photo of some things I had to use to free my right side LCA assembly: A 3lb sledge hammer, Superbar, Vice grips with a 3/8" socket extension (for a punch) and the PB Blaster.
	You'll notice when trying to remove the rear cam bolts that the steering rack assembly is in the way.
Loosen the steering rack by removing four bolts as shown here. This will allow you to push up on the rack assembly for just enough clearance to remove the cam bolts and the cam sleeves from the control arm assemblies. I also disconnected the black plastic boot for more room, but you may be able to leave the boot on.
	Here you can see a floor jack being used (gently) to support the steering rack while the cam sleeve is removed.
Here you can see one of the passenger side cam sleeves which is corroded and seized. Do not pound on the end of the sleeve with a hammer, as you may distort or split the metal. You may use one of the cam bolts or an old 3/8" drive socket extension, either of which will apply a uniform surface to the edge of the cam sleeve when you pound on it with a hammer.